Facial Irons

Over the years a number of hand-held beauty devices have claimed to be able to ‘erase lines and wrinkles’. The earliest mechanical forms – such as rollers and patters – simulated the effects of massage, while later electrical models added vibrational massage and heat. Some of these devices were used alone but many were combined with skin-firming or wrinkle-removing creams.

See also: Massage, Wrinkles and Double Chins and Patters

The principle on which all of these beauty aids rests was the same as that given for massage. They were said to have revitalising effect on the facial muscles, nerves and blood circulation which would improve facial contours and reduced lines and wrinkles. Some also claimed to be able to remove wrinkles through the direct action of heat. Introduced in the 1930s, these ‘Facial Irons’ or ‘Wrinkle Irons’ were used to literally ‘iron out wrinkles’.

Varady Facial Iron

The Varady Facial Iron – patented in the United States in 1931 (USD85676) – is a good example of this type of device. Although the patent was lodged by Michael Varady, it was advertised as being the invention of Armin Varady, Master of the Great Varady Beauty Studios that operated in Budapest, Paris and Vienna for over thirteen years. This is likely to be a fabrication as I can find no trace of either Michael or Armin Varady, or the Beauty Studios, outside of the United States.

New magic from Vienna—in the shape of this miraculous little Varady Facial Iron—that, it is claimed, will actually iron out wrinkles!
The Varady Facial Iron is a tested electric applicator, under whose gentle warmth and stimulation the famous Varady Wrinkle Cream penetrates to the very depths of the skin structure and the delicate tissues beneath—and wrinkles actually vanish! Self treatment with these two wonder-working products brings back natural color, restores youthful texture, and makes your face look as young as it makes you feel.
The Varady Facial Iron, in a compact set, containing a supply of Varady Wrinkle Cream, Cleansing Lotion, and Astringent is $10.

(Varady advertisement, 1931)

In America, the Varady Facial Iron was mainly sold through department stores. It was used in conjunction with Varady Wrinkle Cream – said to come from the ‘flowered hills of Transylvania’ – the idea being that the warmth of the iron would help the cream to penetrate the skin – a not uncommon belief of the time. It does not appear to have been successful with the price dropped from US$10.00 to US$5.00 by 1932 and then to US$2.00 by 1933.

As with facial massage movements, the warm iron was stroked across the face using upward and outward movements for about twenty minutes. As its shape was similar to a clothes iron it could get into the corners around the nose and eyes where wrinkles were likely to be more prominent.

1932 Newspaper article on the Varady Facial Iron

Above: 1932 Newspaper article describing the use of the Varady Facial Iron. The writer suggested a warm spoon could be used as an alternative (Huddleston, 1932).

About two or three minutes time should be allowed for the iron to heat, then holding the handle of the iron firmly, begin low on the chest, move the iron up to the chin, then returning the iron low again and a bit to one side of the first starting point and repeat the upward movement. Continue with the upward movements until the chest and throat has been thoroughly gone over.
Then placing the iron at the point of the chin, follow a line along the jaw bone until the lobe of the ear is reached. Return the iron low again, half way between the chin and lower lip and repeat the upward and outward movement until a point just in front of the ear has been reached. Repeat each upward and outward movement over this area five times.
Laughing lines or other lines of expression that have made their appearance around the mouth should be given special attention. Beginning at the corner of the mouth, move the iron upward and outward to the temple. Then begin just a trifle above the last starting point and repeat the movement. If these lines are to be discouraged go over this area ten or even fifteen times. Continue until the under eye is reached.
Then place the iron just under the eye and well in towards the nose. This movement begins at the nose and runs out to the temple. At the temple the iron should he pressed firmly for a second, released and returned to the starting point. Repeat ten times under each eye. The rotary or circular movement should be used over the forehead.

(Huddleston, 1932)

The idea that wrinkles could be ironed out of the skin like wrinkles in clothing is stretching belief. However, it is possible that these devices may have temporarily reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The underlying blood vessels in the skin would dilate in response to the warmth which, in turn, may have resulted in greater fluid loss from the blood vessels and a temporary skin plumping.

The Varady Facial Iron was not the only one of these devices to appear in the 1930s and a number of similar products appeared in Europe, Britain and the United States. Care must be taken when interpreting some descriptions of ironing. For example the Hand of Isis mentioned below may have been a device made with pumice stone that was used as an exfoliant.

A beauty treatment by Brooklyn is sheer unadulterated excitement. In the first place, she examines your skin. After a preliminary clean-up she flutters a gossamer gauze handkerchief over your face and then puts it under the infra-red lamp to bring up its true texture for her inspection. Only then, when she knows the horrid worst about it, will she choose her creams and arrange her treatment. This is beauty treatment with intelligence. Other highlights in the two hours she devotes to you are a prolonged flat-ironing (the iron is deliciously called the “Hand of Isis” and is used for pale, lifeless skins), a brisk patting with the champagne tonic—and then at the very last moment, when you are all made up and powdered and your hat slanted to its exactly right angle, five minutes under the rose ray—the final touch of beatitude.

(English Harper’s Bazaar, 1933)

See also: Klytia

Post war

The use of beauty irons continued after the war but were now mostly promoted as improving the absorption of skin creams. There effectiveness is questionable.

Ionette

The Ionette Beauty Iron was used in conjunction with a Skin Food or Hormone Cream. All three products were produced by C.194 Products of 10 Hertford Street, London.

Still on sale in 1950, the Ionette consisted of a container, a trigger and a tube leading up to the iron. The iron was dipped in hot water to heat it and, as it was applied to the face, the trigger was squeezed, forcing the cream on to the skin which was then ‘ironed in’.

1946 Ionette

Above: 1946 Ionette Beauty Iron.

If you use the Ionette, this process is foolproof and a pleasure, as the little face iron smoothes the skin gently and rhythmically, never stretching the skin not exerting uneven pressure on the muscles.

(Ionette advertorial, 1950)

The Ionette has some similarities with a facial iron used by Helene Pessl in Vienna in the 1930s. This simpler device was also heated by dipping it into hot water.

1935 Helene Pessl Facial Iron

Above: 1935 Helene Pessl Facial Iron.

Also see: Helene Pessl

Helena Rubinstein

In the late 1940s, Helena Rubinstein introduced her Skin-Pressing Treatment into her Paris salon which used a facial iron. Advertised as an American device used to treat wrinkles and sagging contours, it was combined with Rubinstein’s Huile Vitale which contained hormones.

1946 Rubinstein Skin-Pressing Treatment

Above: 1946 Helena Rubinstein Skin-Pressing Treatment (France).

Because the iron is electrically heated and provided with a very precise adjustment which brings it exactly to the degree of heat required by the nature of the skin of each person. It is the gentle but insistent heat and pressure of the iron that penetrates the oil deep into the tissues and promotes their rejuvenating action.

(Rubinstein advertorial, 1946)

Rubinstein continued to support the treatment which was still around in the 1950s.

Penetron Treatment Kit

Released by Lilly Daché in 1959, the kit was made up of the Penetron device containing a heating element which provided ‘vital heat’ to ‘deep feed skin cells’ and Penetron Cream that contained Cetiol-5, claimed to be necessary for the skin to absorb vitamins. Like earlier devices it may have caused some vasodilation of blood vessels and some temporary plumping of the skin.

1959 Lilly Dache Penetron Kit

Above: 1959 Lilly Daché Penetron Kit.

From Lilly Daché comes a new device which sends infra rays deep into the muscles of the face when smoothed lightly over the companion cream that comes with it. Called Penetron, this small rounded object snuggles into the palm of the hand, is plugged into any electric outlet and when passed lightly but firmly over the face and neck, reaches every contour, opens the pores, and activates the muscles.

(Lilly Daché, 1959)

Adriel Arpel

In the late 1970s Adrien Arpel introduced a skin ironing as part of a Bio-Cellular Facial Treatment. In this case a warm iron was used over paraffin wax to help dry or lined skin.

Before ironing, cleanse skin with a mild, non-oily, cleanser. If skin is oily, apply a paste made of cornmeal and water. Massage with a complexion brush, and remove. If skin is dry, apply vegetable oil instead of the paste, massage with a complexion brush, and don’t remove.
Next, melt paraffin in top of a double boiler until it is of liquid consistency. Apply it to the face with a small paint brush.
It should still be warm, but be sure it isn’t so hot that it will burn the skin. Apply generously, as the paraffin will form a thin seal pinpointing wrinkles, lines and blemishes and exaggerating their presence.
Heat a toy mini-iron (available at any toy store), by running the base of the iron across a pot of hot water, (don’t submerge the whole iron) until it is just warm to the touch, not too hot.
Another way to warm the iron is to rest it on a heating pad until it becomes warm enough to use. Now press the iron gently over the whole face, concentrating on trouble spots. Heat is very helpful to the skin, but would be harmful if applied directly. The paraffin acts as a protective buffer between the iron and the skin.
Work with the iron for about five minutes, making sure it stays warm to the touch. If skin is dry and lined, the iron should help penetrate the oil base deep into the skin.
Oily skin should benefit from the procedure as heat will loosen impurities and bring them to the surface. Pull off the wax as soon as it solidifies, a few seconds after ironing the entire surface. Rinse with cold water, and follow with freshener or astringent.

(Kling, 1978)

See also: Paraffin Wax Treatments

Arpel also suggested using a cold iron to help shrink, tighten and close pores on an oily skin, the cold iron performing the same function as ice blocks, a very old beauty technique.

Later facial irons

Although not common, devices called facial irons are still available today. Some combine heat with muscle stimulation so are part facial iron and part electrical muscle stimulator (EMS). Another type uses high frequency currents to generate a considerable amount of heat in the dermis. This denatures the collagen proteins and produces oedema which temporarily fills out the skin. Following the procedure, if all goes well, new collagen is laid down and the skin firms, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Although these appliances are sometimes referred to as facial irons, they look nothing like the devices of old.

Radio frequency device

Above: Radio frequency device used to heat the dermis.

Like skin needling, which uses a spiked roller to damage the dermis and firm the skin through collagen production, the procedure is potentially dangerous.

First Posted: 1st April 2013
Last Update: 17th November 2023

Sources

Huddleston, J. Ironing out the lines and wrinkles. (1932, April 17). Long Island Sunday Press.

Kling, R. Iron-ic facial. (1978, March 16). Daily News (New York), p. 76.